DIYHiFi.org

Hello everybody,

Since some weeks now I have started my first Loudspeaker project, and I was thinking to build Proac Response 2.5 Clone.

The parts I have already:
-Tweeters
Scan-Speak D2010/8513-00 19mm (3/4") dome, 150W

-Woofers
Scan-Speak 18W/8535-00 and shielded type, Carbon fiber paper,
178mm (7"), 70W
and components for crossover.

Now I'm building the boxes, and I have ordered the MDF material, and until the order will arrive, I have some open points.

Of course I have start googling and I have found many pages how to build, with different sizes and different solutions.

Yes I know, there is only one clone, but the problem is I do not know where is the best place to put crossover components, and where to place the port.

My own modifications to this project, you may find here :

http://www.geocities.com/diyhifiuser/

It is not big difference from the original one, I 'm thinking firstly to place crossover under the Speaker, so I can have easy access to do some fine tunings if is necessarily, therefore I think to extend the length of speaker with 4 cm to (the volume will remain the same because the bottom of speaker will be lifted to make room for crossover). In this case the length of cable will be greater. Another open issue is the cable too. Which kind?

There are many things that can be aroused over building the best Speakers, but I'm making the first steps into DIY arena.

Any advice is welcome.

_________________
Real sound is better,
Or?

I got some interest on such clone myself but after reading here and there it didn't look ok with my setup, actually the positioning, pretty close to the walls(~15cm) and to the corners(~50cm)
I was thinking about moving the bass-reflex port on the front plate, will that improve the things? I have having a boomy room...

As about the crossover, I guess best would be to have it next to the drives but this way it won't be easy to access/work on it. I'd also like to see some more feedback on this topic.

Cables, that's a moving ground, I'm sold for silver cables which I use for tweeter and mid-woofer but for the woofer I got some solid core CAT5, teflon insulated. You may try some solid core CAT5 or some silver covered copper(at least for the tweeter that is). Of course that won't help much if your speaker cables are not at least as good, but on the other hand, a speaker cable is easier to upgrade later on.

You can have some ideas about these clones on my site (in french, I beg your pardon). The pictures can help you, and ask to me about what you can't understand...

http://perso.planetis.com/pcharlet/confenc.html

To work on the filters, I made them like this :



I can unmount them :


Philippe

Dear Philby,

Couls you Pls. forward me the details of the Copper foil inductor manufacuturer.

Merci,

John

_________________
Hi-Fi??? "I may not be a psychiatrist but I know insanity when I see it - what ever happened to the normal old pervert who was content to sniff bicycle seats and collect women's shoes anyway?"

Hello John

My coils come from Diyparadiso :

http://www.diyparadiso.com/

http://www.diyparadiso.com/price/stock-spoel.htm

And here, my listing, on my site :

http://perso.planetis.com/pcharlet/filtres.html

Philippe

Dear Philippe,

Merci for the Link and information - do you know the brand / manufacturer of the coils - I'm searching for much lower values for Class D output filter.

Merci,

John

_________________
Hi-Fi??? "I may not be a psychiatrist but I know insanity when I see it - what ever happened to the normal old pervert who was content to sniff bicycle seats and collect women's shoes anyway?"

You have the Jantzen coils :

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm ... 97#16gauge

Philippe

Nice speakers philby, I think tou used best components
Thanks roiibm, you convince me to move on!!
Thanks a lot for information.
Seems that I have chose the easiest way to "finish" them. I wanted to hear them so fast that I have put the crossover on the top of the cabinet, and I use hot glue to fix components.. BAD,BAD,BAD!

The crossover is like the original. I have used following components:

LUFTSPULE 1.50 MH R=0.34
TRITEC SPULE 0.27 MH 7 X 0.50 MM
TRITEC SPULE 0.82 MH 7 X 0.50 MM
METALLOXIDWIDERSTAND 5.60 OHM 4 WATT 2
METALLOXIDWIDERSTAND 47.0 OHM 4 WATT 2

Q4 MKP 4.70 UF 5 400 VOLT
Q4 MKP 3.30 UF 5 400 VOLT
Q4 MKP 8.20 UF 5 400 VOLT

They are not exactly value like in the circuit diagram of clone, but I'm hopping for better ears..

I do not know whether that is good or not, but for instance I'm happy, but my neighbors are freak out!! :))

http://www.geocities.com/diyhifiuser/IMGA0281.JPG

_________________
Real sound is better,
Or?

I was checking your webpage about how you have built your speakers (impressive by the way), and I find out the crossover (neverending story), and a coment to this like the polarity of tweeter is switch.
Right now I'm using same filter, but I copy it 1:1.

Can you please tell me why is that crossover picture is wrong

Max

_________________
Real sound is better,
Or?

If you are speaking of this diagram,


you have to invert the tweeter connection. The tweeter is out of phase in the proac 2.5.

Have you read this ? :

http://www.geocities.com/diyproac25/crossover.htm

And here the final crossover :



A very interresting work on 2.5 clone :
(pdf, 3.5 mB!!!)
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/diy_loudsp ... _Clone.pdf

Philippe

What a coincidence I am currently in the process of veneering my Proac 2.5 clones. In recent years I haven't seen too much about this project. In terms of vent layout, speaker location, etc I followed the plans exactly as presented at http://www.geocities.com/diyproac25. My crossover is Troels version 6 without a notch filter. The one previously posted is, I believe, a very early version that went through numerous modifications by Troels. This is my first post and if I can figure out how to include a pic of the crossover I will. Well I couldn't so...... I finally decided to locate my crossovers externally in their own boxes and route everything through the vent in back. I used quality components in the crossover (some say this is a waste of money) including all Alpha Core foil inductors, Sonicaps and Mills wirewound resistors. About the only deviation I made was in the interior lining where many people use bituminous felt. The thickness prescribed is virtually unobtainable in the U.S. so I went with a commercial, loaded vinyl that is very similar, but way cheaper than, Blackhole 5. Maybe I will post some pics when I'm finished if I can figure out how to.

Paul

I just noticed the prior post date. Duh..........It just shows how inexperienced I am with posting. Oh well at least I get some practice typing.