DIYHiFi.org

Stick a resistor across the big bypass cap. Make it around 10x the one that feeds the cap. That will lower it.

Had to do the same to one that I built the other day. 10:1 ratio was right on the money for mine.

BTW.......has anyone hooked theirs up yet? Do these things sound ok or not?

Jocko

Thanks for the reply.
I actually just figured it out myself, I stuck in a 10K for R2, and the voltage is now just a little over 5.

Hopefully, I will get it all hooked up a little later today, and see how it sounds.

Randy

So, I got it hooked up, and all I got was distortion.

I hate it when I do something, and I end up breaking it .

I measured the output from my tent clock, and it was a little high 3.8V or so.

When I was using the XO3 with the tent clock, since it was a 5V output, I added a pulldown resistor, after the output series resistor, to bring the signal down to around 3.3V. I used the same resistor, so not sure why output was higher. I actually borrowed one of the XO3 output series resistors, so that was the same too.

My Jocko Reg output was about 5.1 V, with 3 diodes, and a 10K R2.

So, I decided to pull out the 3rd diode, and the pulldown resistor, to create 3.3V from the Jocko Reg. Clock output was still a little high, about 3.4V, but I was getting music now, much better .

I changed R2 from 10K to a 6.8K, and my output was right at 3.3V.

Listened quickly, then had to go out to dinner.

Came back, listened again, and it sounds VERY GOOD.

Am very happy with this little reg right now, I think it's better then the XO3 was, to my ears.

And, I still need to optimize things a little more. I have it a little to the side, so I could also fit in the XO3, so I could compare directly. I lost interest in that, will probably just move the Jocko/Tent circuit as close as possible to the clock input.

My circuit is a Hammond 12VA split bobbin Tranny, feeding a full bridge going to a Panny 3300uf cap, 1/2ohm R, another 3300uf, another 1/2ohm, then it goes to a 470uf blackgate, which is mounted next to a 317 reg. This circuit is dedicated for this purpose, doesn't feed anything else. The 317 reg generates about 13.5 VDC, and is on the same protoboard as the jocko reg. I made a "ground plane" on the protoboard with a couple pieces of copper tape. I still need to add a little cap across the 317's adjust pin, forgot to do that before.

The Jocko reg then generates 3.3VDC, for the tent clock, which is right next to the reg. Jocko reg was built with Panny FC's and Resista resistors. Other parts were those called out by Jocko.

Thanks Jocko

I am glad I was able to participate in this beta test program.

When you build some more, I definitely want to buy some more PWB's. I bought extra transistors, so I have plenty of parts, and I would like to try one to supply the 3.3VDC for the DAC chip's digital power.

Randy

Has anyone else tried theirs?

Jocko

_________________
"Because, I hate you guys. I hate you guys so very, very much.

Yours,
General Cartman Lee"

Jocko,

I have put together one, from the info of these threads, with an 5534. [I missed to queue up in time..]
I tried to be as precise as possible, in effect I think I had been much more faithful to your original config, than many of your real users..
Given that in the reconstruct process i had to think it over - I can only say that this circuit is a piece of art, dunno, like a late Picasso.. Minimal, but each point considered deeply..
Mine came up no problem, no oscillation despite small breadboard, and with my primitive [preamp + soundcard] setup no measurable noise, just the floor. [In the same setup an lm317 shows ~35dB more ]
I had overlooked an important feature, so an initial startup booom killed one oscillator, but then it came up also in my Dac.

Wow.. an enormous change. Originally my clock supply was a 5.1V zener with an lm317 CCS. With your circuit [ok, some other changes as well] now it has gone that eternally present slight treble glare or brightness, it became much more relaxed, neutral.. analogue? ..could continue on with audiophool blabble..

So, I owe You money! Thanks a lot, George

Ps.: My app. is in the ex-Tent dac with digital PLL, the input PS is a 12v battery.

I'd be in for a couple of these when you do more... even though I am in Chicago

Jocko
You need to get serious with these guys
It is a very simple thing to put together, once you collect the parts.

And, I am still happy with it, powering my tent clock. I would like to get some others now, when you buy some more PWB's.

Randy

C'mon.........there just a bunch of hobbyists.

You tell'em to get it together, as they are holding you up from getting any more.

Jocko

_________________
"Because, I hate you guys. I hate you guys so very, very much.

Yours,
General Cartman Lee"

OK, maybe I am being too hard on the others, probably not a good way to make friends here

What if I beg instead?

And how's this for an offer, I have some extras of Q1, and the CCS.
I will send a set, for free, to the first couple of people who ask.
International is OK, but may take a little longer, because I am on jury duty right now, so it is harder to get to a PO to ship them.

Randy

OK......if the rest of you sods don't give me feedback on this thing, then I am closing up shop. Money it tight, and if no one cares enough to say if it works OK or sounds like toss, then why I should I make any PCBs?

Including all the rest. I am serious.

Jocko

_________________
"Because, I hate you guys. I hate you guys so very, very much.

Yours,
General Cartman Lee"

We made ours, both are working just fine, no oscillations with 500 ohms resistive load. Unfortunately our CD-Players have still a long way to come alive...

One thing is for sure: we will need at least two more pcb's for the divide by 2, 4... Based on the feedback from the others (thx ) we can't go wrong!

You are excused. Some of the others are not.

I really need to know how they sound. I can measure them all day long, but that says nothing about how they will sound.

The concept of that regulator is rather simple, so one could say that it has to be more complex to be any good.

Right?

BTW, a few sods have written me trying to reverse engineer it. Amazing that for as simple as it is that they don't seem to get it.

Annoying that, as usual, DIY is full of sods wanting a free ride.

Jocko

_________________
"Because, I hate you guys. I hate you guys so very, very much.

Yours,
General Cartman Lee"

Complexity is its own reward.

Well I have posted my results in another thread:

viewtopic.php?p=35228#p35228

The dac has been powered on since then (actually, it has no power switch) - yet another point if favour of the Jocko reg - it's reliable. (!!!)
I repeat all my words, it made quite a difference for the better.

One of the problems of this dac is too many 78Lxx/79Lxx regs and too little space inside to change them.
I would like to feed the PMD100 and the dacs with Jocko regs, but no space inside...
Anyway, I need some more PCBs when you make more, Jocko.

_________________
Carlos Filipe

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage - to move in the opposite direction." Albert Einstein

Is there room to stick a TO-220 device for the pass element on that? I'll have to rummage around for the only 2 that I saved to see. That might be the only change to make to allow it to be a but more universal. Beyond its original "battery-operated" regulator intentions.

Jocko

_________________
"Because, I hate you guys. I hate you guys so very, very much.

Yours,
General Cartman Lee"