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PostPosted: Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:31 am 
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Nice work.

Please post a brief description of the how's and why's.

Magura :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2005 3:06 am 
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I'm going to buy a better camera in the next few days.

5 sides of the case are 1/4" aluminum fastened together with 4-40 allen head bolts counterset flush with the surface and the adjoining panel drilled and tapped in the edge. Tomorrow, I'll draw a scem of the techinque to do it freehand.

The face is an extrusion that I use for door and window frames in commercial building that is 4" x 1.5" one piece is c shaped and the other flat with groves so they snap together. So the front panel you see is the C. It comes in a 9' piece for about $30.00.

All of the 1/4" aluminum was cur with a circular saw and a giude with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade. Long sleaves, hearing protection and a face sheild are needed to not get burned with the flying shards, but other than that, it really is not a scarry process. And the cut quality is unbelievable. My absolute error on the cuts was +- 1/32", but they were consistantly within .010" of each other.

I'll post some better close ups after I get a new camera.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 8:54 pm 
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Here are my amp's : O ) I got a 4 mini a's built now to start the chassis. And i have the SMD rev1.0

Image

Image

http://jleaman.ath.cx/Event for more picture's.

J'

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:12 pm 
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Nice work as well J'.

Tip of the day:

Cover your aluminum sheets with window masking tape before you begin to work on them, that way you avoid scrathes. I simply dispise to even out scrathes, and covering the sheets with window masking tape takes little effort.

Magura :-)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:05 am 
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OK, it took a little longer for me to drop the cash on a camera than I thought it would. Here are some better pics.

This is the face and wood side. The knobs are 2.25" bar stock cut to 1.25". Next I drilled a hole .25" in the center 1" deep. I deformed the end of a piece of .25" rod and drove it into the hole with a hammer. Next I chucked the rod in the drill press and swing the table out of the way and shaped it up with t a belt sander as it spun in the drill press. Then I progressed to a file, then to wet/dry sandpaper with WD-40. Made a nice heavy solid knob. To protect it I washed it with detergent, then lye, then tried to anodize it with a 12V power supply and muratic acid. It didn't really change the look, but the current draw did go from 1.8A to 1.2A in the 10 minutes it was in, so I think I did something. I toght "what the hell, if it looks bad, I can chuck it back up in the drillpress and resand it in 5 minutes.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:07 am 
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Inside ?

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:23 am 
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This is a side view with the wood side removed. This shows the stock I used for the face. It is an extrusion system that is used in Texas for window and door frames in office buildings. I can get these for $3.00/foot if anyone is interested. It comes with a satin silver andoize finish and machines well. The size is 4.375" x 1.5" and comes in 9' sticks.

You can also see the results of my skill saw cuts without any filing or dressing. I'll have to see if the model number is still readable on the blade and post it. If you have a good skill saw with no endplay in the shaft, you can make truely amazing cuts this way. I didn't dress the cut edge because I really didn't think that I could improve it any other than removing the razor sharp edge. The gap on the bottom peice is because the metal has a slight dish, and the bottom is not fully screwed.

All of the metal except the face extrusions and the L that you'll see in the next pic is from a 4' x 6' sheet of 1/4" aluminum that I found in the scrap yard and bought for $0.40 / pound. I wish I had bought all 8 sheets they had because I've almost used all I bought and they don't have any more.

You can also see the plastic bushing the knob rides on and the coupler that connects it to the encoder.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:50 am 
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Last one for tonight. this top view with the top removed shows how the whole thing is held together. All of the .25" plates are connected together with 6-32 allen head bolts counterset flush with the surface and threaded into the edge of the adjoining piece. The holes were drilled and tapped freehand with a cordless drill.

Once again, it's all in the setup. It can be done without mega dollar tools. The trick is to clamp the peice to a flat wook surface but not flush or hanging over the edge, but 1.5" back from the edge with a perpendicular line drawn to follow. you must hold the drill so the bit lines up with the perp line and is level with the 1.5" of work surface. I did cheat and put the hole a little toward the inside so if the drill poked out the side, it would most likely poke into the inside, but they all stayed inside the metal. I drilled 1.25" deep so that the tap wouldn't bottom out and break off.

I once read in an engineering book something to the effect of control all tollerances you can, and make the ones you can't insignificant. That's why I inset the back panel .20", so if I didn't have it perfectly aligned, you couldn't tell. Same with the side panels, they are inset .010" so the wood will pull up tight to the top and front.

The thing is rock solid and quite heavy. It feels really nice. Now if I can iron out the details on the inside, I'll have a really nice pre. The subwoofer crossover is picking up hum and I'm not sure if it's noise the BOSOZ has relative to ground because The Alephs are silent or a ground loop between the -+ 15v reg supplies and the -+ 50V reg supplies. I have some sauce for that goose in the works.

Fire away if you have any questions or if you are interested in the face material.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:55 am 
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This looks like the Apox ....

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 5:04 am 
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And my hairy knees. Want to guess if I'm naked? :shock:



Yes, I'm finally building them. It's a shame Dale and Chip dissapeared


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 5:08 am 
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Brian Donaldson wrote:
And my hairy knees. Want to guess if I'm naked? :shock:



Yes, I'm finally building them. It's a shame Dale and Chip dissapeared


YUP YUP i know.. I to am working on a nice volume pot.. It's comming along slowly..

j'

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 5:19 am 
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I'm working on another case. This 12 fingered mutant in hell with a skillsaw and cordless drill. There are 23 6/32 allen head scews that are counterset in 1/4" alum and drilled and tapped into the edge of the adjioning piece of 1/4" alum. I only broke one tap, and it's in the one place you can't see.


This is a real high end tube headphone amp that's heavyer tham most 800 watt Home theater in a box receivers.


Anyone want to see any pics? I promise I'm not naked in them. :shock: If there's no interest (in the casework, not me naked) I won't waste the bandwidth.

The new blade that I posted in another thread about cutting alum worked like a champ. It cut like warm butter. I'll also post a pic of a drop off. You almost can't tell my cut from the top and bottom.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 5:25 am 
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By the way, Bridgeport makes a good ESB.... (extra special bitter (ale)) If you haven't guessed, I had a few as I weilded the powertools. :drinkers:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 12:14 pm 
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PICS...PICS....PICS....WANNA SEE :drinkers:


Magura :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 8:24 pm 
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OK. First, this is the amp board. The tubes will poke up through the top of the lower cover.


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